From patent leather to matte: how finishes dictate new aesthetic hierarchies

In fashion, the surface matters as much as the shape. The shine of patent leather and the opacity of matte are not simply aesthetic choices: they are statements of power. In recent seasons, we have seen how finishes become a parallel language, marking social, cultural, and economic hierarchies within the wardrobe.

Shine as a statement

• Patent leather, with its almost liquid sheen, has historically been a symbol of excess, youth, and provocation. From the 1960s to the excesses of the 2000s, its shine served as a cry for attention.

• On recent runways ( Versace, Mugler, Coperni ), patent leather has made a comeback, but not with the same rebellious connotation, but rather as a nostalgic nod to digitalized glamour. Its purpose is to stand out in the spotlight and, by extension, on the Instagram screen.

  
  

Opacity as a new luxury

• In contrast, the matte finish is positioned as true quiet luxury. The Row, Jil Sander, and Bottega Veneta have opted for non-sheen leathers and fabrics, as if the value lies in not needing immediate attention.

• According to the Lyst Index , searches for matte-finish and smooth leather bags have increased by 36% this year, while demand for patent leather remains more associated with niche aesthetics such as clubbing or stylized fetishism.

  
  

Sociocultural reading

• Patent leather and shine represent excessive visibility: being seen, being shared, being consumed quickly.

• Mate, on the other hand, embodies the discretion of power : pieces that only the initiated know how to recognize, a luxury that does not seek virality, but rather belonging to a silent elite.

• In a world polarized between hype culture and aspirational sobriety, these finishes become mirrors of how we position ourselves on the social ladder.

  
  

Business dimension

• Fashion knows this: glossy finishes sell campaigns, editorials, and headlines; matte finishes sustain long-term sales and reinforce brand identity.

• Hermès bases much of its profitability on matte grain leathers, while Mugler and Versace capitalize on shine for spectacle.

• According to WGSN projections, the luxury consumer will continue to alternate between both poles: shine for show, matte for investment.

Conclusion

The debate between patent leather and matte is, at its core, a discussion about what kind of power we want to project: visible and fleeting, or discreet and lasting. In fashion, each finish not only builds style: it builds hierarchies.